Eating & Drinking

 

TimeOut 24th Edition 2007

L’ Auberge Restaurant

 

Sometimes this gem of a restaurant is so full you get turned away. Sometimes, as when we arrived, you’re the only customers. The location is awkward, and neighbouring eateries come and go frequently. The owners, M and Mme Ardilly, are professional and welcoming enough to make sure even a solitary diner has a relaxed and enjoyable time. Settle down in the pleasant dining room, and look forward to the prospect of reliable starters and mains, outstanding desserts, and a personal touch from the Ardillys (thoroughly French, sourcing ingredients on their cross-Channel shopping trips). We liked the textures and flavours of a snail and pesto tart, a rabbit casserole with tarragon and lemon, and a thick slice of calf’s liver with Muscat jus. We loved, though, the lavender and honey crème brûlée: warm and crisp at the first bite, and one of the best we’ve tasted anywhere. A creamy, sharp lemon tart was thoroughly impressive too. This blend of hospitality and some star dishes is good reason why L’Auberge succeeds where others nearby do not. We keep returning.

Babies and children admitted. Booking advisable for large parties.

Restaurant available for hire. Vegetarian menu.

 

TimeOut 23rd Edition 2006

L’ Auberge Restaurant

 

So busy was this family-run restaurant on our Tuesday evening visit that staff were turning away non-bookings. The diverse range of customers (dating couples, groups of medics, thirty something friends) seemed to include regulars known by name to patronne Mme Ardilly, so there was a friendly buzz about the place. Food is French with a capital "F". We enjoyed an appetising and intense cocotte of fat snails in garlic, cream and white wine with mushrooms, while a delicate plate of savoury veal kidneys was civilised rather than mind-blowing. Cheese were ripe and well chosen, with a bleu de Bresse oozing towards a piquant St Marcellin. Puddings are probably chef M Ardilly's forte. A crème brûlée, flavoured with cardamom and almond and named Pondichéry (after the French colony in south India), was warm on arrival, the caramel top still soft from the flames before crusting at the table, it was one of the best crème brûlées we've tasted in years. It's tough to keep to these standards on this slightly bleak stretch of the South Circular (neighbouring restaurants were either empty or closed) and the owners deserve all credit for their success.

Babies and children admitted. Booking advisable for large parties.

Restaurant available for hire. Vegetarian menu.

 

TimeOut 22nd Edition 2005

L’ Auberge Restaurant

 

Cutting to the case, the puddings at L'Auberge are excellent; even the most savoury-toothed might be tempted to start, continue and end the meal with them. We began more conservatively, with a highly successful pheasant and ground hazelnut terrine, which included layers of apricot, damson and fig and came with redcurrant jelly. Grilled goat's cheese was tangy and fresh-at its peak- and toasted hazelnuts went well alongside.   By now we had begun to notice how good the service was, our waitress knew the wine list inside out (all of it looked good value). Explaining that our choice of wine had run out, she suggested a better alternative. The room has been decorated and seems more French this year, shaking off the previous trattoria feel. A main course of wild boar daube was properly gamey, while while a daube of beef (from the £16 set menu) was tasty but not as tender as it could have been. To the puddings, though...crème brûlée with pistachio and honey was, without question, the best we had tested; tarte tatin was perfection too, with soft sweet pastry and thick, melting apple. It's a shame we were the only customers on the Tuesday evening we visited.

Babies and children admitted. Booking advisable for large parties.

Restaurant available for hire. Vegetarian menu.

 

TimeOut 21st Edition 2004

L’ Auberge Restaurant

 

This small, difficult site has seen restaurants and styles come and go (the plasterwork dates from a former incarnation as a trattoria), but there is every reason to believe that L’auberge’s new owners will make it work the best. M Ardilly is in the kitchen and is confident enough, when needed to bring dishes to the table so he can enjoy the diners’ reactions. Mme Ardilly is friendly, attentive and concerned, apologising for the décor and talking of plans for a makeover when the time is right. The food does this newly-wed couple credit, for value and quality. A cassolette of fat mussels was well balanced in a light spinach cream; melted goat’s cheese had almost as much nuttiness as the toasted hazelnuts alongside. Duck breast arrived medium-rare, as ordered, tender and carved in a fan, while the steak with herb butter was just fine. We finished with a simple treat: tarte tatin (made in-house), with large apple pieces and ice-cream full of vanilla. This is straightforward cooking, done well. Customers (including a table of French visitors) seemed very content to be there.

Babies and children admitted. Booking advisable for large parties.

Restaurant available for hire. Vegetarian menu.

 

TimeOut 20th Edition 2003

L’ Auberge Restaurant

 

Humble competition for the (normally considerably more packed) restaurant chains down the road, this discreet little restaurant has nevertheless gradually cultivated a small but discerning following of Putney locals. The menu offers interesting French bistro fare with quirky touches (think roast duck breast with jasmine sauce, cherry brandy and sultanas). But the thick, creamy sauces that covered both our starter of snail feuilletés and main of grilled cod (garlic and pea, respectively) overwhelmed any more delicate flavours. But the desserts are a strong suit. Lemon mousse was faultless- light and tangy with no acidic edge- as was the crème brûlêe infused with a hint of lavender. What’s more, attentive service and decent value for money make this a useful local. It’s also worth keeping an eye out for its monthly dégustation evenings.

Babies and children admitted. Booking advisable for large parties.

Restaurant available for hire. Vegetarian menu.